Today began with mist and our reluctance to turn out from our hut was palpable. The mood was possibly not helped by the generally poor sleep reported by many and the overall dampness of the place. There had been a fair bit of noise overnight inside the hut and the constant clanging of bells worn by the horses outside hadn’t helped. The fairly lacklustre breakfast might also have been a factor.

Nonetheless at shortly after 9am we headed back down the track which had brought us to the refuge. In mist and with less spring in our step than might have been expected we retraced our steps back to Lago de (Lake) Enol. From here we made our way towards Lago Ercina, en route to visit an old lady who makes cheese nearby and maybe to sample some. But she wasn’t there. Oh dear. Was it going to be that kind of day?

But apparently not. The gloom of a misty cheese-free morning lifted as we had a snack by the fuente (fountain) Las Rebragas and the cloud lifted too. We were once again in spectacular surroundings about to venture onto new ground.

Skirting Lago Ercina we took a gently ascending path through terrain becoming more familiar: rocky paths flanked by verdant grassland with sandstone escarpment ahead. As we climbed the cloud still above us thinned.

Eventually, after a lunch of locally made bread with cheese and various charcuterie cuts the cloud finally lifted and our journey was once more blessed with warmth and great views.

Now climbing more steeply we made our way to a pass from which we were able to see, for the first time, the Macizo Central. Wow. This was more like it!

This was always going to be an odd day. A day of transit if you like. To position us well for what followed and our fist sight of the Macizo Central was thrilling. Buoyed up, we continued across more open terrain in sunshine towards our sleeps for the night.

When we crested a rise the Refuge Marquez de Villaciciosa, curiously also known as Vega de Orio, was a welcome sight. Set in an impressive location this was a more modern building with fresh spring water on tap for everyone to refill their bottles and camelbacks.

After a few snacks a rustic shower and, for some, some deliciously cold beer we left our packs at the refuge and climbed the ridge unladen to get an even better view of the Macizo Central. With low cloud appearing as a sea between us the peaks appeared to be rocky islands.

After a delicious dinner of lentil soup with chorizo and fresh rolls followed by steak with rice and, joy of joys bearing in mind where were were, some cake and pineapple some of us settled down to chat and play cards. As the sun dropped we were blessed with the most beautiful of views. This is where we’re going tomorrow. The relatively uninteresting day, not helped at all by having been shrouded in mist for the most part, had come good. Tomorrow beckoned.