Friday morning dawned clear. The rain and cold wind of yesterday had moved on and we were blessed with blue sky and dry rock. That was important as the day ahead was all about rock. Lots of it. As we gathered in front of the Refugio we were stunned at how it was dwarfed by Picu Uriellu (Naranjo de Bulnes). The photo above really doesn’t do it justice and it remained in view for much of the day ahead.

With some on long trousers and warm tops due to the early chill in shadows we walked gently uphill from the Refugio. As we crested a pass we were greeted by a vista of rocky towers, spires and rock faces that were carved during the ice age.

Our first objective was to cross the glacial bowl and summit the Torre de los Horcados Rojos (Tower of the Red Gallows) via a saddle. But first there was a scramble over the pass and down into the bowl.

Those waiting were treated to the sight of a few chamois, aka rebeccos locally, watching us with more than a degree of curiosity. They we’re probably amazed at our clumsiness in comparison with their grace on rock.

The scramble was followed by a trek on narrow paths around the perimeter of the bowl. With the Urrieles now having disappeared over our shoulder we remained in shadow while around us the peaks became bathed in bright sunshine. Though seemingly close it took nearly 2 hours to cross the bowl always guided by the rocky face we were to scramble up ahead.

Bye and bye we became bathed in sunshine ourselves and as we approached the scramble unnecessary layers were shed.

Then it was time for the effort to start. No more gentle trekking – it was upwards now and what a joy it was. Hot sunshine and dry rock with new vistas opening at every step.

After over an hour of climbing we reached the Collado Horcados Rojos (2344m) and surveyed the next target, the Torre deco Horcados Rojos upon which other climbers could be seen in miniature.

This was no scramble but a sustained 30 min climb up a rocky track and at about 12:30 we sat on the top, at 2500m, enjoying amazing views.

Looking back the way we had come the huge Naranjo de Bulnes was once more visible.

Lunch was taken at the amazing Refugio Veronica. Perched on the side of a mountain at 2325m this Refugio is built from the gun tower of the US aircraft carrier PALAU which was being dismantled on the coast near by. It can accommodate 6 people and is open from April to November. It keeps a small stock of food and drink supplied occasionally by helicopter and often by backpacking. The nearest water supply is 2 hours away. What a place!

While we ate lunch vultures circled, probably hoping for a morsel or two.

Eventually, and reluctantly, we had to make our way down. The way was stark and barren and the track can just be seen leading us to lower and slightly greener climes in the photo below. But the vultures kept us company, seemingly ushering us out of their kingdom.

Finally, at about 4:30, we reached our refuge for the night and we had an unexpected surprise. Far from being a rough and ready hut the Hotel Refugio de Aliva was a treat with spectacular views, simple but very nice rooms, and restaurant and cafe/bar. Rosana chuckled when we gasped: she had kept this secret well.

There have been a lot of photos in this blog, and not that many words. Much as I like to write, on this occasion I just had to accept my words couldn’t possibly convey the beauty and magnificence of this place. I hope that’s ok with you?

Finally, at the end of this amazing and wonderful day I took the time to thank my poor boots which had begun disintegrating a few days before but had somehow kept going. Just one more day, please, then your job will be done.